Surf check, check, surf

Just a heads up that the waves behind the surf shop today were super fun. Redd showed up and could not resist. “Resistance is futile” and I closed the shop and put a up a sign that said I was out back. Left free bars of wax outside the door to appease the Surf Gods and who ever was dropping by for some fresh wax.

Surfed my nine 0 for the first minnie sesh,  the coke bottle green T. Evans right coast model. That was the call for today for sure. Great longboard with some nice long lines peeling off left down the beach. Then Tom F. showed up to return my retro twin keel fish that he had borrowed for a spin. I could not resist and took it out on my second go and – wow, that was fun as well. Amazing how fast that little retro plate is even in some of the mushier waves. Felt like I was Dave Reeves flying off the tops of one or two sections. I surely was not but still…

Sunny, warm no Wetsuit in mid November with tit high or better waves coming in, damn life is good. If it hangs again for one more day tomorrow, be sure and play hooky like I did today and get in de water…

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